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Home away from home

Author

Paul Barnsley, Windspeaker Staff Writer, Ottawa

Volume

22

Issue

7

Year

2004

Page 25

You can find a little bit of home-with an upscale twist-the next time you visit the nation's capital. Sweetgrass Aboriginal Bistro is about to celebrate its first anniversary. Located on Murray Street in Ottawa's trendy Byward Market, the restaurant is owned and operated by husband and wife team Phoebe and Warren Sutherland.

Phoebe is a James Bay Cree from Mistissini Lake in northern Quebec. Warren was born in Jamaica but moved to the United States when he was a teenager.

The two met while studying at the New England Culinary Institute. After apprenticing at a variety of upscale restaurants throughout the United States and Canada, the two chefs decided it was time to open up their own establishment on Nov. 15 of last year.

The building they chose to house their business is located on a street that is home to many restaurants that are known for adventurous and high level fare. The area is becoming popular with lovers of haute cuisine.

"This street is really coming up. There are lots of great restaurants here. They're pretty well known," said Phoebe, during an interview at the bistro on Sept. 25.

"Especially on this street," said Warren. "We wanted to be in the Market. The Market's centre is York Street. and as you come out of York Street. the rent goes down significantly. Lots of places that were available in the York area were really big and really expensive. This place was really nice because it's small, a heritage house, and it kind of fit what we wanted to do," he said.

Things fell into place nicely for the new restaurateurs.

"It was funny. It used to be a dessert place and at the time we were looking at places that were going up for lease we happened to be coming here for dessert and saw this 'for lease' sign outside. It was perfect timing," Phoebe said.

With decor and an ambiance that makes Aboriginal people feel at home, the menu represents a five star version of down home First Nation cooking.

"A lot of game meat and a lot of fish," Phoebe said when asked what Aboriginal cuisine was all about.

"It's natural. There's not a lot of manipulation. Everything kind of showcases itself," Warren added.

"And we do everything in house, from the breads to the desserts," Phoebe added.

The restaurant seats 55 patrons inside and there's room for another five in a small bar area. When the weather's nice another 35 people can enjoy a meal on a intimate, tree shrouded patio in the backyard.

The couple seems to have been destined to end up in the hospitality business. Warren studied engineering at the University of Michigan but frequently found himself scribbling recipes during class. His friends told him he had a special talent, so he changed majors and not only gained a new career but met his future wife.

Phoebe studied hotel management at Ottawa's Algonquin College before heading south to culinary arts school. A college assignment prompted her to envision a restaurant adorned with Native art and Native foods on the menu and Native music playing quietly in the background. That idea has become a reality.

The biggest challenge they face in getting the business established for the long term is also their biggest advantage in a very competitive marketplace.

"We're a different restaurant. It's a major positive, and a major negative is the fact that people expect exactly what they get everywhere else. All our meats are expensive. They're really not cheap. And some people have come in and said our restaurant is expensive," Warren said.

But worth it, Phoebe said.

"My people, the Crees, when they come from up north to come here, well it is a little pricey. But one of the best comments I ever got was 'Oh, we wanted to come for something different but not too different. It's still kind of a reminder of what you would eat back up north.' The good thing is we do get a lot of repeat customers. We've got a lot of regulars now," she said.